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Day 44. An uneventful drive across the Colorado River and, after ninety miles, into Palm Desert, where we join Alison and Jim in their condo. Our stay has been earned by their appearance at a ninety minute sales presen- tation. Tennis courts, drinks by the pool, all very surreal in a very moneyed sort of way.


The food and drink were outstanding, the bbq'ed steaks, in particular.















Day 45. Patty and Alison ride the tram to the top of the mountain above Palm Springs, while Jim and I get our manly computer fixes.














Day 46. Off to Las Vegas. We arrive at Bert and Janice's in the early afternoon and immediately hit the off-strip casinos. Home for dinner, then back to the Palace Station casino for a comedy show....Bruce Mickelson, with Buffet Jackson. The smoke just about kills us. But, hey, it's Vegas...

Day 47. More gambling, of course. Patty's success story of the day involves spending one hour at the same machine and walking away with the same two dollars she started with! The economy has taken it's toll on Las Vegas. I have never seen so many people playing penny machines. It is heartwarming. Weather never gets much above the low 70's. The air is clear, (outside, anyway.) The day ends with another great dinner at an italian/greek restaurant. Life is good.

Day 48. Leaving Las Vegas. We say goodbye to Bert, Mac and Marie. The cats are already busy doing their cat things and Janice and Sarah have left hours earlier to cleverly avoid the camera. We meander out of town. Cold is coming so we decide to avoid the Sierras and the Siskiyous. This involves a little backtracking and spending an hour or two on the ugliest drive we have experienced yet. Road is fine, but scenery is unbearable to look at. Empty. Deserted....oh, yeah. Without desert beauty to uplift...oh well, rambling done.
Then we head up 101. Winds are blowing hard, chill is in the air. We must be close to home.

Day 49.
Just another day in the glorious Salinas Valley. The farm workers are out harvesting the lettuce and tomatoes for my next salad, but we don't linger to watch. We are up thru San Jose and San Francisco, then over the Golden Gate Bridge before you can say "cable snap," which apparently happens on the Bay Bridge over to Oakland on this very same day and snarls all traffic forever in this part of the state. Another bullet narrowly dodged! But we proceed north merrily unaware of our near plight.

The redwoods are enchanting as ever. We stop for one last night in Eureka, dining in on bounty from the local natural foods store.

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Day 43. Silver City, NM is the town that places like Sisters would have been if all the money hadn't rolled in. The streets are lined with galleries filled with the quirkiest kinds of art. Most restaurants and coffee shops feature live music. Buildings are mostly brick and stone, a bit old and shabby, but in a funky, cool sort of way. The people are very friendly. We haven't seen this many gray ponytails in one place in a long time. As one local (of ten years) told us, as NM is known as "The Land of Enchantment", Silver City area is the "Land of Entrapment", since he felt he couldn't leave once he'd discovered the place. We are feeling much the same as we escape the spin and head for points west. It was to be trivia night at Isaac's, with spaghetti and bison meatballs......but the road calls. We have places to be and birthdays to celebrate!














And what a road it is. Forty miles and 2000 feet down to the interstate, then heading west. Just a little further, we'll see something.....just past Gila Bend......well, let's try Tonopah. Nothing there except the kind of motel frequented by axe murderers......Quartzite?.....uh, no. It's still 80+ outside as we drive into the sun glaring thru our windshield. We settle on Ehrenberg, AZ, across the Colorado River from Blythe, CA. There we learn that Arizona doesn't turn clocks back and forth twice a year, and that we've arrived an hour earlier than we thought we had.

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Day 39.
Short day in the car today. Our goal is Santa Fe. Georgia O'Keeffe gallery (museum) seems a delightful idea. Wandering the streets looking at lots of expensive looking people shopping for expensive looking things. Lots of young blonds in leather and turquoise hanging on the arms of older grey-haired men. And, an oxygen bar. This is a sprawling city with very little obvious charm.
Day 40.
On the road early with lots of new territory to see. We head north through Farmington NM towards the four corners. Photo Op! It is yet another hot and sunny day. After strolling around in four states and two Indian nations we hop in the car and cruise into Gallup for the night.
Day 41.
From Gallup we head to southern New Mexico by going to Arizona. We follow a spectacular road high into the hills around 8300 ft. And, a shared dessert for mid-morning snacking.













Then back into New Mexico and down into Silver City.
We are both instantly charmed by the historic part of town and we settle into the historic Palace Hotel for two nights. Brian has been anticipating an open mike night in a little town nearby, but soon learns the place is currently closed for remodeling. BUT, he then learns that the eatery across the street from us is opening ITS mike this very night. Brian has a wonderfully successful performance evening. And, we have wonderfully succulent salads.
Day 42.
Today we rise and head to the Gila River Cliff Dwellings. What a road! What a hike!




























What a thunderstorm once we get back to town. The curbs are very high here. Now we know why!
The river definitely runs through the streets of this town, even after a relatively light rainstorm.

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Day 37. Woke up early to the most spectacular lightning storm we'd ever seen. It lasts several hours and drops several inches of rain. People are warned to stay inside. Flash flood warnings abound. Unfortunately, the town survives. Hope floats. And we leave.
The Arkansas countryside is beautiful as we head northwest into the mountains to dig for crystals. Uncertain as to whether it will be too muddy to dig, if we will find the much-lauded "mine," and whether any of them will be open for business today. No problem.
About ten miles out of Mt. Ida, we locate the rural house of Dee & Gee. We pay twenty dollars and are given a map, and assured that our low-riding car will do the road with no problems. We drive three or four miles and turn on to a muddy road and climb thru the woods. At the top of the hill we are greeted by Dee and her assistant, who set us up with bucket and shovel and lead us into the woods to where the digging is done. Accents are thick as banjos play in our heads. Was that a pig squealing off in the distance? No, that is the sound coming from me, as I am in hog heaven! I get to play in the dirt for over two hours! I leave a happy (and thirsty) girl. Actually, everyone is great, and the hunt is very successful.














Growing weary of Arkansas, we head for Fort Smith, expecting to cross into a Oklahoma border town. Well, there is no town, so we cross back in to Arkansas and book a room downtown at the Hojo's. The motel is empty, as is the downtown. Looks like it saw better days a long long time ago, if ever. We are sensing this town's claim to fame is it's participation in the Trail of Tears episode. This town needs to forgive itself and move on.
Dinner was interesting. 30% liquor tax is added to the bill of my $5.44 g & t, 15% beer and wine tax on to Patty's $3.75 beer. Oh, and sales tax.
We sleep well and leave first thing in the morning.

Day 38. A "work" day as we drive across Oklahoma and the Texas panhandle, arriving in Tucumcari NM, stopping only for food, trading post, a brief visit at an Indian casino (hit a $80 jackpot upon arriving and immediately left), and rolling the clock back another hour. Steaks at the restaurant next door to the $30 motel room on Route 66. Good to be back west.

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Day 34. The day started off like any other day. We left Apalachicola early in the day with the temperature already at 86 degrees. We continued down the coast and stopped in at the beach voted Best in America.....This solidified our plan for a "day off."
Up the coast another hour and we are in Panama City Beach.....the belly of the beast. And loving it.
And here we sit and float and walk and smile.
An
area full of Disneyland like mall attractions for adults and kids alike. All in the shadow of 20+ story hotels lining the beach. We listen to a good country band while we eat German food.




Day 35. We are on the road again. It is overcast, which makes the leaving of the water easier. Heading up the gulf coast towards Gulfport, Mississippi. Amazing to still see the abandoned foundations and broken piers from Katrina this many years later.
Moving away from the water, we head toward Zachary LA, looking forward to a rainy night in Louisiana.

Day 36. In the morning we drive to St. Francisville, the home of some of the most beautiful plantation homes in the south. Oh, yeah, and very haunted, supposedly.Heading north through the center of Louisiana on a smaller highway. Saw much poverty and natural beauty all in the same place. Finally climbed into Arkansas and landed in Hope for the night. Jeeez, what a dump. Bill Clinton Drive takes you AROUND town, but not into it. A dry city in a dry county, to boot. Waiting for the heavy rain and thunderstorms to wash it all away.

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Day 30. A morning stroll around Asheville for coffee, then a failed attempt to find the downtown residential area. We find ourselves heading south on the interstate and figure it was just meant to be. Four hours later we are in Atlanta rush hour traffic as we work our way across to Marietta to see Stan. He takes us out to one of his favorite Cajun restaurants, then it's back to the motel.









Day 31. Driving around the Atlanta suburbs is frustrating. We drive on many 45 mph roads with many stop signs (lots of hurry up and stop). Stan knows every road and what's on almost every major street corner. Distances take much longer to cover then they look like they should on the map. But it does make it easy to find a waffle house.













Then it's a drive to the train station for a ride into downtown. Patty visits Margaret Mitchell's house. This is not her. (Although, after getting some history on Ms. Mitchell, one cannot be too sure.....)

















Then we all visit the Cyclorama, a massive painting that depicts (with accompanying narration) the battle of Atlanta.














Then it's back to Stan's trailer park for laundry and sausage....and another long drive back to the motel. Heard on the news this morning that Atlanta has been voted the worst city traffic in the world (or something like that) and I add my vote to the pile.

Day 32. Stan takes us out to Stone Mountain, a large park centered around a big rock. One very big rock. A mini-Mt. Rushmore, confederate style.

More good-byes, and we are off to Brunswick, a small city on the Atlantic coast of southern Georgia.
We soon realize we are in the tropics, and the 93 degrees with 100% humidity drives it home.
We insist on checking into a cheap (yet still over-priced) motel room, then head off in search of Ron and Lisa's house for dinner. First class. We are in for an authentic southern food experience. A low country boil in the home of new friends. Some sporadic rain showers prevents us from using the back yard table, but newspapers spread on the dining room table do the trick.We then head out to Jekyll Island to watch the sunset. Kids wading in the water with porpoises swimming around them, mullet fish jumping all around while we bat at sand gnats.
A driving tour of the homes on the island, then back to the house for the best peach cobbler ever.














Day 33. Southern food. Slaw down and pig out.
The days starts with a walk around downtown Brunswick to see the sights. Then we meet up with R & L, and they treat us to a brunch of more of the real thing: grits, black-eyed peas, BBQ pork, greens, fried chicken, tomato casserole, mac and cheese, peanut butter pie, cornbread, biscuits, gravy, squash casserole, grouper, shrimp...and that's just to start.
Drawling from the buzz, we do a guided car tour of the historic district and are then waved goodbye after we cross the above-pictured bridge.













The drive into Florida and across into the panhandle is beautiful. Tropical and smooth. We hit the Gulf of Mexico where the houses are all on stilts waiting for the next storm surge. We finally settle into Apalachicola and head out looking for the elusive alligator tail. And, we find it. And, steamers done gulf style (lots of peppers and no garlic), conch disguised as a hush puppy (not the shoe), and alligator tail, breaded, fried and served with sweet potato fries. Really DOES taste like chicken.

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Day 28. A morning drive on Skyline Drive through Shenandoah National Park. Beautiful view as we drive along the top of the ridge.

























We find ourselves in close proximity to Charlottesville VA and decide to explore Monticello. The tour is fabulous with a very knowledgeable guide. We get lots of great ideas for our next house...and gardens













It's looking a little dark and stormy but not cold at all. So, we set off in search of Appomattox. And, after winding up and over some roller coaster roads, we find it. But, the actual courthouse has been disassembled years ago and moved to D.C. And, the town is one of the least inviting we have seen yet....So, it's on to Lynchburg VA for the night. Following the Jerry Falwell Expressway we find one of the best motels yet and a Texas steakhouse within walking distance.

Day 29. Instant grits in the breakfast lobby. We're not in Kansas anymore. Clear and windy on the road today. Massively beautiful colors on the hillside. A quick stop in Erwin TN on our way to North Carolina leads us to the story of Mary, the Murderous elephant, and her hanging at the local railroad depot. There is the mandatory commemorative tee-shirt purchase.
We arrive in Asheville, NC, in the late afternoon. Beautiful place, and a bit more of a city than we expected. Hit the first open mike in a pizza pub just north in Weaverville. A nice meeting with the local musicians. Animals seeking out their own kind.

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Day 25. We start our morning in Doylestown at the Mercer Museum. It is a large cement building full of Americana. From the vampire killing kit to the wooden cigar store figures, it's just about got it all.



















Although western PA is a beautiful place, anything short of an interstate freeway is a traffic nightmare. We escape along the river, skirting Philadelphia as we dip into Delaware (just to say we've been there.) Another stop and go crawl back into PA on a road that looked much bigger on the map. We then head east through Lancaster County where we encounter no Amish, at least in uniform. We arrive in Gettysburg and settle into a yet again overpriced motel where, apparently, the mice have better access to the toilet paper than we do.


We then supper at, yes, the local brew pub.

Day 26. Our plan to be up and doing the walking tour of town before the apple-seeking hoards (it IS the 44th apple harvest festival here!) falls short of it's goal. But we pick up an auto tour cd and begin the journey through the battlefield.














After a very thorough tour of this area, I am thoroughly depressed. We decide to cheer ourselves up by heading straight for the capitol of this fine country. On the road again, and in no time we are circling the Potomac River looking for a place to park. It's Sunday and we stumble upon a very good place that a Dept. of the Interior employee assures us is a great find. She also directs us to a nearby hotel and restaurant across the bridge in Arlington that serve us very well.
The memorials large and inspiring. Brian takes my hand and starts to lead me up the steps of the Lincoln Memorial to tell him what we want for Christmas!
Brian is able to locate the White House and the men in black strolling on the roof.












Patty turns her back on the Washington Monument.









Day 27. The next morning, fresh and ready to go we take the metro into DC. Hop off at the Museum of Natural History where one of the exhibits allows me my live butterfly experience.
Totally cool.





This is followed by a visit to the Hope Diamond and other illustrious rocks and some playful interaction with heat.





















After a few more museum stops, we head back across the Potomac, grab the car and begin our journey south. We wind up in Front Royal,VA, a comfortable little town at the foot of the Appalachians, about 80 miles west of DC. We visit an odd little local pub featuring trivia AND a local musician. We found the meth-induced behavior of the staff far more entertaining.

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Day 23. Walking and driving in NYC are done like schools of fish, weaving in and out of each other, filling every gap as we swim forward. KEEP MOVING. New car lanes are claimed by the front corner of any vehicle bold enough to nose in. Pedestrians cross against the lights between oncoming cars. Faux pas are noted with stern honks.
Waking up exhausted after two days of over-stimulation, we still cannot resist taking another walk to Times Square for coffee and people watching. We settle in for a final breakfast, all confessing a strong urge to escape all the madness. We watch outside as a young girl on her way to school is knocked down by a semi while crossing against the light. While we did not notice the actual event in front of us, her placement in the road (and her condition) suggested that she walked or ran into the semi herself. Fortunately, a nearby pedestrian stopped the truck before it actually ran over her. Now, THAT'S entertainment!
We bail out the car and head north on 9A, then cross Bronx and head into Connecticut for a Jewish deli in Vernon.




On our way back to Boston we realize that we are antsy to move on to new territory, so upon our return we quickly reload the car, bid farewell to D & C, and head on our way.









We head west on the Mass Pike and wind up in the Berkshires. We stay in a quiet, comfortable motel in Great Barrington run by an overly anxious to please innkeeper, raving about the details of his rooms and our expected good review on Trip Advisor before he even quotes a price. A nearby brew pub offers up one of the best prime rib dinners we've seen in years. We're still stuffed from lunch, but split one anyway. Life is good.

Day 24. October 2, 2009
Off to a promising start. Heading down the Taconic State Parkway in NY we see some of the prettiest scenery yet with fall colors, cemeteries and antique shops. We are in the neighborhood so we drop in on the Vanderbilt mansion on the Hudson. $8.00 and an hour of our time is too steep a price to take the inside tour, so we meander around the place and drive on..

Hell is East Stroudsberg, PA....at least their road system. How I longed for Carolyn's TomTom to direct us out. AAA was no help at all. No road numbers exist on map and no map numbers match roads. At last we literally stumble on the road we were looking for. All in all it has taken us one and a half hours to go 30 miles.

Oh goody, we land in Doylestown! A serendipitous event. For here lies the Mercer Museum and there we must go. Not so serendipitous as far as motel accommodations go. I can only say there is a great void here that could be filled by a low to medium range motel. You'd have my business just by advertising wi-fi and then NOT charging you extra for it at check-in.

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Day 19. After our usual morning stop for coffee, we are on our way back to Massachusetts. We decide, once again to take the scenic route, where we discover strange creatures...













...and, along the Atlantic coast in New Hampshire, the best lobster meal...ever..,

Then it is down to Salem to visit a museum or something hysterical in nature. It is a dark and gloomy afternoon. Perfect for hunting Salem witches. Rounding a few corners and behold, the Witch Dungeon Museum (and gift shop!). The reenactment of an actual trial with two performers and 6 dummies. (The dummies were in the jurors box). Then downstairs for several displays of the jailhouse conditions and the (dummies') final destination.














Day 20. Rhode Island hilarity.
We decide to get another state under our belt with a drive to Rhode Island for lunch. After seeing the sights of Providence, we settle on an outside restaurant amidst the yachts in Warwick. We sit down, sip our drinks, and watch as the waitress brings out a tray of food for the three ladies next to us. While two of the three are being served, we notice a seagull land on the abandoned tray, lift a piece of chicken from the third unlucky lady's salad and fly off. This is not noted or witnessed by anyone else, apparently. Her salad is served, minus one chicken slice. My potato salad is delicious.
Back on the road to Mass to cook dinner and prepare for the next day's journey into NYC.

Day 21. New York City.
Committed to an early rising, by 5:45am we are up and about. Except for Brian who is experiencing a replay of yesterday's potato salad. Dennis and Carolyn ply him with ginger ale and coca cola. I do a few massage techniques and we allow sleep to complete the healing.
Finally by 8:48 am we are on the road with Dennis at the helm, Carolyn and her gps navigating, and me in the back with Brian's head in my lap.
Two hours later in the town of Wallingford, Conn. we make a stop for coffee and Brian emerges a healed man. He wants to drive into NY. Good directions and great navigation (kudos to Carolyn!) bring us to our Manhattan parking garage between 23rd and 24th not even a block up from our digs.
Again, kudos to Carolyn for arranging this place. The Leo House. I believe it is run by the Catholic church as a training ground for hotel workers. It was simple, clean, safe and the best deal in town, apparently. The location was right up from the 8th St. subway entrance, and after check-in we are off to explore.
Carolyn and Dennis guide us to Times Square, around Rockefeller Center, and then up to 54th St. to do a recon for the Colbert Report studio. We have about an hour and prefer not to wait in line hungry. Just up the block is a wide variety of food choices and Thai it is. Another great food experience. Then back to wait in line.The show is an incredibly fun experience that a blog cannot do justice to. I really enjoyed the Q&A with Mr. Colbert prior to the show itself where we were told he would answer questions "out of character." And then the audience was asked if we were all aware that (during the show) he was IN CHARACTER? That was pretty funny.
Then it was back to the area by the hotel, a beer and pizza stop, and off to sleep.
Day 22. New York City.
Dennis wants to visit Times Square early to see the ABC or NBC morning show. Brian and I are happy to accompany him on this quest. We meander around the area for a bit, have some coffee (Starbucks), and head back to meet Carolyn for breakfast and then to head off for the day.
Brian and I decide to walk to the Empire State Bldg. It is fun and brusque. I follow the crowds to the 86th floor while Brian watches a small demonstration against China outside.
We then hop on the Grey Line bus and do the Manhattan in a day tour to the point of exhaustion, stepping off for the Staten Island Ferry, Rockefeller Center, and lunch in the East Village.

A "short" walk through Central Park, then meeting up with D & C at the Museum of Natural History.

Dinner at a German restaurant on E 24th, then we return to our hotel to collapse exhausted in our rooms.